Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Montpellier markets


Like any French city worth its salt, Montpellier has a variety of markets scattered throughout the municipality.

If you are a visitor to France, a market visit is strongly recommended. I say this because the markets are important to French life on so many levels. It seems indisputable that the culture and history of France and its food/cuisine are inextricably entwined, regardless of whether or not Marie Antoinette really said "Let them eat cake". The map of France is often represented as a food map with little images of comestible specialities for each region. The uninitiated might be forgiven for thinking it necessary to mount an enormous cream filled pastry and then wade through a vast marsh of foie gras to gain sight of the Spanish border... that is if the bottles of muscat and the Catalan cake don't block the view.

With this I would like to present you the markets of Montpellier but first a few words to the wise: Buy that which is in season, check prices and origin indications before purchase, favour regional specialties. Languedoc Roussillon has a bounty of wonderful things to offer so lap up the local specialties and don't go crying if you can't find any Norman crepes.


Marche Des Arceaux:
Open Saturday and Tuesday mornings. Along the picturesque aqueduct that passes over 'Boulevard des Arceaux'
This is probably the most colourful and scenic market in town. It is my favourite. Always animated, frequented by buskers and local characters. This is also known as "Le marché bio" (organic market) in reality only about 1/4 of the stands specialize in organic products. The majority of the stands represent local producers whom at least make an effort to reduce their environmental impact, even if they don't get the official "agriculture bio" label from the French government. Nearby 'Rue Marioge' has a reputable butcher shop and bakery along with some quality ethnic take aways worth checking out.

Halles Castellan:
Rue de la Loge.
Open every day though many stands are closed in the early afternoon in respect of siesta time. Covered markets are called "Halles" in French. This is the most central market in town and generally quite expensive.

Halles Laissac:
Open every morning except Monday. Place Alexandre Laissac. A bit grungy but quite traditional and representative of the "halles" you will find in working class districts all over urban France. It is often better value than the other main markets in the city core.

Marché de Figaroles:
Open every morning. Place Figarole. The cheapest market in town by a country mile. The produce tends to be of provenance unknown or at least not advertised. This market is also known as the "Marché Arab" but this invites confusion with the 'Marché de Mosson' in the North of the city. Another advantage of this market is that it is surrounded by a number of quality budget shops to complete your shopping. There are two fishmongers on one side and numerous Halal butchers on the other with a few small middling bakeries scattered around. Of the two fishmongers one is decidedly down market with a tiny garage like interior and the day's catch chalked up on a blackboard outside. The other is very bright hygienic and professional but locavores beware there are year round salmon from Scotland and Norway and other items that have doubtlessly accumulated their frequent flyer miles.

Marché de la Mosson:
Tramway stops La Mosson or 'Les Halles Paillade'.
On one end you have the covered market which is open every day and at the other you have the massive flee market of Mosson. It is a local bigoted joke that if something is stolen you need to go to Mosson to buy it back. It is true that you can find just about everything at this market and usually it is quite inexpensive. It is at the extreme North end of the town in Montpellier's most notorious 'ban lieu'. It is surrounded by low rent high rise apartment complexes. It is easy to get there with the tram but give yourself sufficient time to get there, look around and get back. It is a good half hour from the city center and it is a very big market on Sunday.