Monday, February 1, 2010

Montpellier Wine Bars revisted



When I first arrived in Montpellier, only 6 years ago, my fellow Anglo-Saxons and I could not understand where all the wine bars were hidden. For almost a year I assumed that they were just hidden from the uninitiated. In reality, there were none which was incredible in view of the fact that wine bars were now everywhere in every civilized part of the world except for some reason in a relatively cosmopolitan city in one of the biggest and most diverse wine growing regions on the planet. This is a lesson in how slow the French and in particular the Southern French are to begin any change. This cranky slowness has its advantages too.
The good news is that now Montpellier boasts a wide variety of wine bars and the list I made this summer is already well out of date. Once change finally gets going here it's impossible to stop as evidenced by the way wine production has revolutionized here in the last 20 years from mass production of table wines for daily use in giant co-operatives to a crafted range of domain wines marketed at finer pallets. The result of this qualitative overhaul has been great, almost bewildering, choice amongst a range of individual wines and wineries which now we can finally enjoy in a wine bar setting.

Baron Rouge
A relative new comer. They have a very good list of wines which regularly introduces new bottles to their list so even regulars can make new discoveries. Great cloistered atmosphere with the vaulted ceilings typical of older buildings in central Montpellier. The barrels and candles really make you feel like you are enjoying the inside of a monastic wine cellar. They offer quality tapas to help you appreciate the wine as it should be.

Esprit Vin
Wide open comfortable atmosphere with a nicely situated terrace for when the music gets too loud inside. Their wine list is long enough to keep you occupied for a long time. They have the best value mixed tapas plate in town. Essentially, two can dine for 12 Euros, not counting the wine.
Prices are such that you might as well order by the glass if you wish to try different wines in the same evening.

In Vino Veritas
Not far from the central square Place de la Comedie. A usually busy place that could pass for a wine bar almost anywhere in the world but in a nice way. The tapas and wines are all local. The service is efficient and friendly.

Take Five
A tiny place which is a little more downscale from the majority of local wine bars but you aren't likely to spend a fortune. There is always jazz music playing inside and local art or photography being displayed on the walls and these are things which also tend to please the average wino. Your wine will be served in a cheap balloon glass and they don't generally lay out on presentation but it's agreeable enough.

Times Café
A well established address in the St. Roche quartier.
Generally very good service and pleasant if sometimes crowded atmosphere.
A good wine list which unfortunately has not really changed since the bar opened about four years ago.